Lost to the Ages: The Automat

Updated: Dec 3, 2023

Horn and Hardart Automats were a revolutionary idea that began in the early 1900's. The format originated in Germany and was brought to the United States by Joseph Horn and Frank Hardart. In 1902, Horn and Hardart opened their first Automat in Philadelphia. A decade later, Horn and Hardart Automats also had locations in New York City. By the early 1940s, there were more than 157 Automats, serving over half a million customers a day.*

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The Automats were unique in a way because of a very special twist....literally! The eateries featured tasty food in little individual windows for you to choose from, then you would put a nickel in the slot, twist a nob, and viola!! These amazing coin-operating vending machines would deliver delicious macaroni and cheese, fresh peach pie, or whatever your heart desired for you to enjoy.

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The food was hot and fresh, unlike the vending machines of today. So how did all that delectable food get into these little windows? The magic (and the kitchen) was behind the windows where the food was prepared and cooked, baked, boiled, et al. Historian Colleen Kim wrote, "In a time when many American kitchens lacked modern refrigerators and electric appliances, the Automat offered cool, mechanical efficiency in the spirit of the Ford assembly line."** Additionally, Horn and Hardart had a very strict food policy. It had to be fresh, and no food could be left overnight. This quality control was the key to their success for decades.

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Horn and Hardart's coffee, from day one, captured the public's taste and attention. Their original brew, made with chicory, was first introduced in Philadelphia and it quickly became a sensation. At the time, most coffee from lunch counters had been a chore to drink. The harsh, brackish sludge was made by boiling coffee beans with eggshells. Horn and Hardart's coffee were the first drip-brewed coffee. It was always fresh and dispensed at the perfect temperature by brass-shaped dolphin head spouts.

Carolyn Hughes Crowley described Horn and Hardart's exacting standards, "After brewing each batch of their coffee, Horn & Hardart employees filled out a timecard. After 20 minutes, they discarded whatever coffee remained and prepared more. Irving Berlin, the composer of "God Bless America," wrote a famous song about this delicious brew, "Let’s Have Another Cup of Coffee," which became Horn & Hardart’s theme song."***

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Horn and Hardart's brightly lit, hospitable, and clean eateries attracted customers from all walks of life. Customers never needed a reservation, could sit wherever they wanted, and were not hurried to leave after they finished their meal. Furthermore, customers were allowed to stay as long as they wanted even if they only bought a five-cent cup of coffee. From families to day workers, and the rich and famous, all were welcomed.

Said the technocrat,

To the Plutocrat

To the autocrat,

And the Democrat—

Let’s all go eat at the Automat! —New York Evening Sun, 1933

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Although Horn and Hardart was a major presence in New York City from the early 1900s to the mid-20th Century, they eventually fell out of favor with fast food joints like Burger King. The last Horn and Hardart closed in 1991 after almost one hundred years of business. Many New Yorkers (and Philadelphians) mourned the loss of this iconic eatery.

And if you're beginning to wish you could go back in time and visit a Horn and Hardart Automat, you're not alone. You, however, can get a little taste of Horn and Hardart by making their famous Macaroni and Cheese. This recipe and others are found in The Automat: The History, Recipes, and Allure of Horn and Hardart's Masterpiece by Marianne Hardart and Lorraine Diehl.